Exactly one year ago, we aired an interview with author Maria Finch Chandler, who had just released her field guide to ice cream on the Cape and Islands.
Now, the second edition of Cape Cod Cones is out, and more has changed in the local ice cream scene than you might think.
CAI’s Gilda Geist sat down with Chandler recently to get the latest on all things Cape and Islands ice cream.
Gilda Geist Maria, the first edition of Cape Cod Cones was so comprehensive. What made you want to do a second edition?
Maria Finch Chandler Well, there's been a lot of changes since that first edition last year. Eight shops have either changed hands, sold, opened under a new name, or closed altogether. And several iconic shops have sold but are continuing on in their name and tradition that established them as great ice cream shops with a following. And then also there's seven brand new shops. So, I felt that I needed to update that book. That's 12.5 percent of all of the ice cream shops on Cape Cod and the Islands with some kind of change.
GG What's new in this second edition of Cape Cods Cones?
MFC I think it's interesting [that] we have a number of new shops, beginning several years ago, that have brought new flavors and new food traditions because they're being started by immigrants. One of the shops that comes to mind is Flamingos [Ice Cream and Bakery], and they just opened at the end of last year. It was started by Aubrey Foster. He also owns Cape Cod Caribbean Cafe, which is right next door in Hyannis. They're Jamaican. They have traditional Jamaican rock cakes, peanut drops, rum cakes. And then they also serve this coquito ice cream that is Puerto Rican, based on a cocktail. It's got coconut cream, coconut milk, rum. It's very tasty.
There's another shop called Caffé Gelato Bertini. It's located in South Yarmouth. It moved last year. And this is a five-star, award-winning gelato shop. In fact, they have the highest customer rating of all the shops on Cape Cod. It started in 2007 by Alessandra and Susi Bertini. The Bertini sisters worked in their family's gelateria in Florence. They learned the trade from their dad, and they brought it to Cape Cod. Several years later, they sold it to a couple, Cindy and Tom Duby, who apprenticed under the sisters. Then fast forward to 2020, the second set of sisters, Patricia and Peta Thomas, purchased the cafe, and they're Jamaican-born. These sisters apprenticed then under the Dubys, who taught them the craft of gelato making, and they continue with those old Florentine recipes that the original Bertini sisters taught them. And so I felt like that's a beautiful tradition being passed down.
GG Last year when former CAI Morning Edition Host Patrick Flanery interviewed you about your book, he asked you if you had a favorite ice cream shop on the Cape and Islands. You said it depends on everyone's personal preference, which I completely understand. So, without necessarily saying it's categorically the best ice cream, do you have a personal favorite or go-to ice cream shop that's in your book?
MFC One of the shops that come to mind is Gone Açaí in Hyannis. I just went there a few days ago for one of those açaí berry bowls. I layer it with blueberries, bananas, strawberries, coconut and honey. They'll put the toppings on the bottom and then they put the açaí on top, and then they put the topping on the top. So, the açaí is sort of sandwiched in there between the toppings. Love it. It is so tasty.
I love Four Seas. We just went there on Saturday for some cantaloupe ice cream. This time of year is a great time to go because they've got fresh fruit ice cream—fresh strawberry, fresh peach and fresh cantaloupe. The old owners, the Warrens, they apprenticed the new owners, Josh and Leslie, on how to make the ice cream, and it meant a lot to Josh and Leslie to get those recipes right.
There's another shop called Beaches and Cream Ice Cream and Açaí. They're in West Dennis, and this fellow, Drew, is the current owner of the shop. He makes these homemade pop tarts and sandwiches ice cream in the middle of them, and it's the best. I mean, suddenly you can eat ice cream for breakfast! Why not?
